Bigfoot 2x12

Bigfoot 2x12 Specifications
Description: 2x12 + Tweeter Speaker Enclosure
This light weight enclosure featured high power capabilities, singing mids and earth-shaking lows.
Power Handling Capacity: 500 Watts RMS
Impedance: 4 Ohms
Frequency Response & SPL: 95 dB SPL @ 1W1M (-3db @ 40Hz and 15KHz)
Speaker Complement: (2)12" Bag End drivers, (1) Le Son ferro-electric tweeter
Porting: Front Tube Ports
Size: 23 3/8"W x 23 3/8"H x 18.5"D
Weight: 65 lbs

Connection and Operation
The SWR Bigfoot 2x12 can be connected to any musical instrument amplifier that is capable of driving a 4 ohm load. To connect your amplifier to the Bigfoot, run a high quality speaker cable (18 gauge or heavier) from your amplifier's speaker output to one of the designated speaker inputs (banana or 1/4") on the input panel of the Bigfoot.

Power Handling
The power output rating for any amplifier that is connected to the Bigfoot should not exceed the cabinet's 500 Watt power handling capacity.

Speaker Cable
Only SPEAKER CABLE of 18 gauge or heavier (The heavier the cable, the lower the gauge) should be used to connect your amplifier to the Bigfoot. Do not use shielded instrument cable to connect your amplifier to your speaker enclosure, as this can result in intermittent power loss, cause your amp to oscillate and damage itself and/or your speakers, and render the cable useless for any purpose.

Full Range Input and Output Jacks
The Bigfoot features three, full range input/output jacks (two standard 1/4" and one banana) wired in parallel. If you are running two speaker enclosures in parallel, connect the speaker cable from your amplifier to the 1/4" jack labeled “IN”, and a second speaker cable from the 1/4" jack labeled “OUT” to the input of the second speaker enclosure.

Please Note: Only one amplifier at a time can be connected to the Bigfoot. DO NOT plug two amplifiers into one speaker enclosure, as it will not work and can damage your system.

Tweeter Attenuator Control
The large dial found on the input panel of the cabinet is the Tweeter Attenuator Control. This control is used to adjust the level of high frequency signal present at the horn/tweeter. A normal setting for this control is straight up or “twelve o’clock”. Turning the dial fully counter-clockwise removes the tweeter from the circuit. As you turn the dial clockwise from this position, the high frequency content is increased.

Please Note: Any amplifier clipping that occurs will be accentuated by the tweeter. If you hear a distorted signal through your tweeter and fear that it has been damaged, turn down the master volume of your amplifier to see if the distortion remains present. Another common “false alarm” that can be misinterpreted as a horn defect can occur when a string on your instrument is struck with enough force to hit the pickup. This can cause a loud clacking sound, once again, emphasized by the high frequency circuit.

Internal Crossover
The internal (passive) crossover of the Bigfoot divides the incoming signal into two frequency bands. The crossover point is 5 kHz (frequencies above 5 kHz are sent to the tweeter, frequencies below 5 kHz are sent to the 12" speakers.)

Tweeter Protection Circuit
The Bigfoot's tweeter protection circuit features an 18 watt, 24 volt light bulb that is in series with the tweeter. Under normal conditions the bulb is cool. As you begin to overload or put more power into the tweeter, the bulb begins to light and increases in resistance, limiting the voltage going to the horn. At high power levels, you may notice intermittant light coming from behind one of your speakers. This means that the protection circuit is doing its job and quite possibly you should turn down the attenuator knob. A sudden burst of feedback or a heavily clipped waveform can cause the bulb to open - just like a fuse.

If no sound is coming from the tweeter, check the position of the Tweeter Attenuator Control. If it is set above the fully counter-clockwise position, check the bulb on the interior of the input panel. This can be done by removing the four outermost wood screws securing the input panel to the enclosure. Do not remove any other screws on the input panel. After the four wood screws have been removed, gently lift out the input panel assembly. The bulb will be in plain sight and should be checked by visually inspecting the filament. The bulb should be clear (ie: no dark residue on its interior) and the filament should extend without a break between its two ends. If the filament is broken, it will be necessary to replace the bulb. Replacement bulbs are manufactured by companies such as Sylvania, Phillips, and Wagner and are available at nearly all auto parts stores and gas stations (where they are generally sold as auto "dome lights"). The part number for the replacement bulb is 211-2. If you have difficulty finding the correct bulb, please contact the SWR Service Department at (818) 253-4797.

Speaker Protection Grill
The custom-manufactured steel grill was installed to protect the Bigfoot's speakers from puncture or other physical damage. Prior to shipping, the grill mounting screws are tightened to a point where they firmly hold the grill in place and are free from rattle. Should the screws loosen, some rattling may occur. If this happens, simply tighten the screws until they become snug. Do not over tighten the screws as this could bring the grill too close to the speakers and cause interference with the speaker cones.

Cleaning and Maintenance
A stiff brush (such as those available in the cleaning section of most super markets) can be used to keep the cabinet's carpeting free of lint, pet hair and dust. Should you encounter a problem with the carpet collecting odor (from smokey clubs, etc...) a common carpet cleaner can be used, but it is recommended that you test whichever brand you choose on a small, inconspicuous area on the underside of the enclosure, prior to spraying down the entire covering in order to prevent any discoloration or other problem. All screws on the baffle and input panel should be checked periodically for tightness, so as not to become loose (causing rattles or air leaks) or lost.

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